Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city is hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
